How to Layer for Skiing
Nov 20, 2024
Table of contents
The first component in any layering system is a base layer. This layer has two functions: to provide some insulation and to wick moisture away from the skin. Base layers come in a range of materials, from natural fibers like merino wool and rayon to synthetics like nylon and polyester. For winter resort skiing, merino base layers are by far our favorite option: They offer impressive warmth, they’re cozy, and—perhaps most importantly—they have great odor resistance (synthetic materials, on the other hand, are notorious for holding stink). Merino base layers come in various weights; if you’re getting out in really cold conditions, we recommend thick and warm designs like Smartwool’s Classic Thermal Merino or its Intraknit Thermal Merino.
A good base layer is relatively snug fitting and allows for full freedom of movement—many designs incorporate spandex or mechanical stretch to help with mobility. Some are simple crew-neck tops, while others add a ¼-zip at the neck for ventilation and easy on/off with a helmet. And then there are hooded base layers like the Smartwool Classic Thermal Merino Base Layer Hoodie, which we absolutely love for its head and neck coverage during storm days (a good base layer hood fits snugly under a helmet). Most skiers will wear just one base layer, but you can also double-up in lieu of adding a midlayer—in the words of one of our testers, the double base layer is “warm but not warm warm [like a base layer - midlayer combo]” and great for mild days or super active skiing.
In a typical layering system, the primary role of the midlayer is to trap warmth. Skiers can choose between a jacket or vest, and the most commonly used insulating materials are fleece, synthetic fill (popular brand names include PrimaLoft and CoreLoft), and goose or duck down. Fleece is known for being cozy, breathable, and affordable, with designs ranging from heavier, bulkier jackets like Patagonia’s Retro Pile jacket to sleek, performance-oriented designs like The North Face’s FutureFleece. Synthetic jackets can also be very breathable (especially those with a soft and stretchy shell like the Patagonia Nano-Air), and are generally a good bit warmer than fleece without too much added bulk. If you don’t mind the investment, a synthetic jacket is our top midlayer recommendation for resort skiers. Finally, down jackets offer great warmth for the weight but have their fair share of downsides too: They’re expensive, don’t breathe as well as fleece or synthetic insulation, and lose their insulating properties when wet.
Some midlayers can be worn next-to-skin (fleece and sweatshirt-like synthetic jackets in particular), but in most cases you’ll want a base layer to wick moisture and protect you from abrasive zippers. Thus, a good midlayer is roomy enough to wear over a long-sleeve base layer, but streamlined enough to fit underneath a ski jacket. If you can, we recommend finding a midlayer without a hood, as hoods can bunch uncomfortably with your ski jacket. And finally, be mindful of how much warmth you’re adding: If you wear an insulated ski jacket, you can likely forgo a midlayer on all but the coldest days.
The final step in a layering system is the outer jacket, which acts as a durable and protective barrier between you and the elements—wind, rain, snow, sharp ski edges, rusty chairlifts, and more. In the case of resort skiing, we recommend a dedicated ski jacket: These purpose-built designs offer great coverage and have handy features like a ski-helmet-compatible hood, ski-pass pocket, powder skirt, and more. Without exception, ski jackets are fully weatherproof by way of a waterproof membrane (Gore-Tex being the most well-known) and a durable water-repellent (DWR) finish, and most feature thick shells that keep wind at bay and can handle season after season of hard use.
But you’ve still got one decision left to make: Will you opt for an insulated or uninsulated ski jacket? This decision ultimately comes down to factors like where you ski (places like the Northeast and the Tetons experience frigid temperatures while the Pacific Northwest can be fairly mild), how active you are on the slopes (do you stick to groomers or hike out to sidecountry terrain?), and your body’s cold tolerance. We often find ourselves recommending insulated jackets to newer skiers who don’t want to spend too much time thinking about layers (you can often get away with just a base layer). But shell jackets are inherently more versatile for season-long use and their added breathability is a big bonus for particularly active skiers. Plus, you can always add more insulation underneath your shell on the coldest days.
With so much airtime given to the layers for your core, you might be wondering about your legs. The good news is that your bottom half doesn’t need quite as much insulation to stay warm, so you don’t have to worry about wearing bulky layers that get in the way of skiing and walking. Thus, our recommended below-the-belt layering system includes just a base layer and a waterproof ski pant.
Like ski jackets, ski pants come in both insulated and shell designs. Our recommendations for which to choose are similar—shell pants are more versatile and a better pick for active skiers or those who spend time in the backcountry, while insulated pants are a cheaper and easier way to ensure warmth, making them more appropriate for resort skiers. If you opt for an insulated ski pant, you’ll likely only need a thin base layer bottom; with a shell pant, you can add warmth with a thicker merino base layer. And on truly cold days, you can sub in a fleece or insulated pant for the base layer (or go for maximum warmth and layer it on top). We especially love ¾-length base layer and midlayer pants like the Ortovox 185 Rock'n'wool Short Pant, as they minimize bunching underneath your ski boots.
Proper layering is your number one defense against cold days on the slopes. But it’s not everything—you still have your hands, feet, face, and neck to worry about. Aside from the obvious necessities like a ski helmet, ski gloves, or socks, we have a few great tricks for keeping these vulnerable areas warm.
First off, you can protect your face and neck with a balaclava or buff—we love designs from Skida, Blackstrap, Buff, and Turtle Fur. Put this layer on before your helmet and make sure that it covers your neck completely, leaving no room for air to get through at the back. You’ll be grateful for the face and neck coverage on stormy chairlift rides or when battling cold wind on the downhill. Pro tip: If you have long hair, you can cut a small slit in your balaclava or buff to let your braid or ponytail run free.
If you suffer from particularly cold feet or hands, it might be worth adding a heated sock or glove. Unfortunately, most heated gloves are bulky and not functional for gripping a ski pole, and they’re very expensive too (the Hestra Power Heater Gauntlet Mitt is $425). Before you go this route, we first recommend trying a super-insulated mitt like the Black Diamond Mercury Mitt ($120); if that’s not enough, add a handwarmer pack to each. Thankfully, many skiers have better luck with heated socks or heated footbeds (the Lenz 6.1 heated sock is a great place to start). And if you really need it, you can add insulation with a boot cover like the Snüx Overboot. No matter what strategy you use, be careful to not restrict blood flow with too many or too-tight layers—this is a rookie mistake that will lead to cold hands or feet no matter the outside temperature.
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